Saigon, VN –It’s official name may be Ho Chi Mihn City, but most people still call it Saigon. When I first arrived in Saigon 25 years ago, the airport was old and badly needed modernization. Many places did not accept credit cards and it was difficult to find ATM machines. I chose to take a cab from the airport to my hotel. The window on the passenger side was knocked out and then it started to rain and when it rains in Saigon– it really rains. When I finally arrived at my hotel, I looked like someone had dumped a bucket of water over me. A lot has changed in 25 years. Today Saigon looks more like Manhattan.
Twenty five years ago, I traveled around the city on an old bicycle pedicab called a “Cyclo.”On December 23, 2024, just three weeks before my return, Saigon opened its first new subway and light rail line. It took 12 years to construct and there were many delays, including Covid. As I rode the new line from District One to District Two, many Vietnamese passengers of all ages crowded into the cars. I could see the excitement and pride on their faces as they snapped pictures and selfies. The new cars and stations were sparkling clean with restrooms. Young people were giving up their seats, so the elderly passengers could sit. Something, I would never see in Los Angeles or San Francisco, where the cars and stations would be trashed and vandalized with graffiti and homeless people would be sleeping in the stations.
Saigon’s transformation in the last 25 years has been remarkable. I could best see it from the Bitexco Financial Tower. Designed by Venezuelan American Carlos Zapata and completed in 2010, the Bitexco Tower is to Saigon what the Empire State Building is to New York City. From the 49th floor observation deck you can get a 360 degree panoramic view of the city’s urban sprawl. http://www.bitexcofinancialtower.com/?page_id=1420
When the Clinton administration ended the trade embargo against Vietnam in 1994 and normalized relations in 1995 it opened the door to new international investment, improved infrastructure and more visitors from around the world. Most Americans still only know about Vietnam and Saigon because of the war, but more than sixty percent of Vietnam’s population was born after the war and they are bringing an exciting energy and new ideas to Saigon.
When I travel, I like to get out of the tourist areas and explore the neighborhoods of working class people. The best way to do this by taking walking tours or by motorbike. Getting on the back of a motorbike in Saigon is scary at first, but after awhile of navigating the city’s streets and back alleys it can be exhilarating.
You can book tours and motorbike excursions with Saigon Adventures: https://saigonadventure.com/
Just outside of Saigon is the Can Gio Mangrove Biosphere Reserve. During the war the area saw intense fighting. It served as a training ground for the North Vietnamese army who were able to hide in its foliage. The U.S. unsuccessfully did everything to try and drive the North Vietnamese out, including the use bombs and chemicals like agent orange to destroy the trees. After the war the trees were replanted and the wetlands are now protected by UNESCO. It is home to 4,000 monkeys and 16 crocodiles.
You can book tours to the Can Gio Mangrove Biosphere through Viator: https://www.viator.com/