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Mark Jue

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Still California Dreaming

Too many people, homelessness, rising crime, the high cost of living, drought and fires. California has been in the news a lot lately and for all the wrong reasons. As a native and lifelong resident of the state, there are days that can be challenging. I needed to remind myself why I still choose to live here. I decided to take a short road trip.

I had never been to Muir Woods National Monument. Located in Marin County just north of San Francisco, Muir Woods is home to some of California’s oldest coastal redwood trees. My day starts early around 7:00 am, before the crowds start to arrive. One of best things about Muir Woods is that you can’t get cell phone or wifi service here. I happily shut off my phone and leave it in the car. I want to disconnect. For the next few hours I want no calls, texts or emails. I just want to soak up the shade of these giant coastal redwoods, enjoy the fresh air and quiet solitude.

The Japanese use the term shinrin-yoku, which translates to “forest bathing” or “absorbing the forest atmosphere.” The practice encourages people to spend time in nature. Studies have shown that forest bathing can help lower blood pressure and heart rate, putting you in a more relaxed and calm state. I want to see if this stuff actually works, but as I begin my descent into the forest my blood pressure and heart rate actually jump, I see that people have tried to carve their initials into some of the trees. Seeing destructive things like that makes me want to shout , “You are a guest here! This is not your home! Respect the forest!

There aren’t many people on the trails this early Monday morning which makes it nice. I close my eyes, breathe in the fresh air. I can’t believe that this is my first time in Muir Woods and wonder why it took so long for me to visit. Many of the trees here are more than a thousand years old. They once covered the California coast, until they were logged out. I hike to Boot Jack Trail to the Ben Johnson Loop, which is a moderately strenuous hike about six miles. Along the way, I hear a woodpecker tapping away at a tree. There seems to be a rhythm to what he is doing, “tap, tap, chirp. tap, tap, chirp.” It feels like he’s putting on a show.

After about three hours of hiking, I start to make my descent back. just before noon. The park is beginning to get more crowded now. I see families, some pushing strollers, hikers, elderly and young couples. I hear a variety of languages spoken: Spanish, French, German, Italian, Hindi, Chinese. As each person passes by, I greet them with a “Hello” or a “Good Morning.” Perhaps this forest bathing does have some benefits on one’s demeanor? An Asian man in his early 20’s passes me by. He seems to be in a hurry to get some place. “Slow down and enjoy what’s around you!” I want to tell him. That young man was once me.

Tips: Be sure to make a reservation before you go to Muir Woods National Monument. Reservations are required. Try to go on a weekday and early in the morning before the afternoon crowds arrive. Most important of all: You are a guest here. Respect the forest!https://www.nps.gov/muwo/ind

LA nights ain’t for sleeping

Carmel sights one for my fantasies

Redwoods reaching for the sky

And the Golden Gate lights are calling me

California 1 highway of my memories

California 1 spinning me toward my dreamsConfunkshun 1981.

When I hear the song California 1 by the 1970’s-80’s R&B band Confunkshun I feel like jumping into a convertible and cruising up the Pacific Coast Highway. Over the years, I’ve driven many times between LA and San Francisco, but I’ve never driven the coast, instead opting for Interstate 5 in order to make time. It’s faster, but boring, dusty and often smelly because of the large number of cattle feed lots. I chose this route because I was always in a hurry. I always wanted to reach my destination as fast as I could.

The Pacific Coast Highway is slow and winding. At one moment it can be covered in fog and then suddenly the sun will appear. Many travelers pull over and stop along the way, because the views of the Pacific Ocean are stunning. Until today, I have only seen it in photos or read about it in John Steinbeck’s novels. Again I wonder what took me so long to come here. From Monterey I drive to Big Sur, another place I’ve wanted to visit but never made the time for.

I want to see the coast and the ocean so my journey begins at Andrew Molera State Park. The Creamy Meadows Trail is a flat, dirt trail surrounded by foilage that leads to the beach. I feel the anticipation as the dirt turns to sand and the beach reveals itself like a gift on Christmas day. It’s still early in the morning, there aren’t many people on the beach. I sit and listen to the waves, breathe in the salty ocean air. The sand feels so good in my fingers as I grip it in my hands.

Later I continue my hike up the Bluff Trail where I get a more elevated view of the coastline. You can see the fog rolling in from behind the mountains. It feels like I’m walking in the clouds and the colors: blues, greens and yellows pop out like a Van Gogh painting.

Choosing a different environment, my journey continues at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. There are more people here because of the lodge and campgrounds, but it’s not overrun by crowds like a California theme park. I feel fortunate as I hike among more giant redwoods, streams and waterfalls. After a few hours of hiking I leave the park and as I head home on the Pacific Coast Highway and continue my journey on the 101 Freeway back to Los Angeles, I’m in no hurry. I feel present, calm and happy.

California can be a challenging place to live. No one knows that better than me, but sometimes I need a few reminders of why I still choose to live here and yes after all these years– I’m still California dreaming!

Tips: If you go to Big Sur always check for road conditions to see if it’s open and try to go early or off season before the crowds arrive. Stay on the marked trails. The idiots who get lost, injured or die on them are usually the ones who went off the trails. https://www.bigsurcalifornia.org/

2 comment on “Still California Dreaming

  • Teri Murrison
    August 31, 2022 | 1:31 pm

    Love this, Mark. For all its faults, there’s just no place like the Golden State. Glad you had an inspirational trip home.

  • David Laws
    September 7, 2022 | 8:22 pm

    Mark, Good that you took the time to get out of your car and explore. More visitors drive through Big Sur than Yosemite every year but few get more than a few feet beyond the highway. It’s still a magical place.

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