Kaunakakai, Molokai — I’m sure I looked out of place that first day. “Where you from–Osaka?” a local man asked. “Los Angeles,” I replied. “How long you been here?” he responded. “Just arrived,” I explained. You won’t find many tourists in Molokai. There are no billboards or stoplights. Cell phone and wi fi reception are not the best, but after spending a few days here, Molokai has now become my favorite of the Hawaiian Islands.

Kaunakakai is the town center, but don’t blink if you drive by, because you may miss it. If you are lucky enough to find it, here are a few of my favorite places:

Molokai Fish and Dive: They can arrange fishing and snorkeling trips for you. You can even pump your gas here, but December through April is the time to see humpback whales.

http://molokaifishanddive.com/

Ono Fish and Shrimp: This is a little trailer parked next to Molokai Fish and Dive. Try the fresh Ahi Poke or the butter garlic shrimp.

Kanemitsu Bakery: This place is famous for it’s Molokai sweet breads, malasadas (Portuguese donuts) and other deserts. Get there early, because the best stuff is usually gone by 1:00 pm and above all don’t demand gluten free! I understand your health concerns, but less than one percent of the population is actually allergic to gluten–the rest of you are just being ASSHOLES!

Kalele Bookstore & Divine Expressions: Great place for books and local arts. My new friend, owner Teri Waros is a community treasure. She will help you if you have any questions about what do in Molokai.

http://molokaispirit.com/

Kamoi Snack-n-go: Go here for Dave’s Ice Cream. It’s Hawaii’s best.

Night Life: There’s not much of it here, but you can head over to the bar at The Hotel Molokai, the island’s only hotel, where local musicians like to jam.

Saturday Morning Market: This is the weekly street market at the west end of the block, where you can purchase fresh foods and produce, arts and crafts.

“Are you local? You look local, ” said Theo, a woman who sells aloha shirts at the market. It was now my third day as I strolled through the market. “No, I’m from LA,” I replied. “I’m sorry. You need to come back to Molokai more often, ” she chuckled. After three days on what is considered to be the most Hawaiian of the islands, I’m sure it won’t be long before I do return.